A comprehensive overview of natural textile fibers

FLAX

A sustainable fiber that produces linen fabric

DESCRIPTION

Flax is one of the oldest and strongest natural bast fibers and is extracted from flax or linseed plants. It is a stiff, crispy fiber with a natural luster. Its color usually ranges from ivory to light tan to gray.

HISTORY

Flax first dates back to being used in a linen headpiece in Israel 8500 years ago. Roughly 5000 years ago, both the Swiss and ancient Egyptians used flax to produce linen fabric. Linen was also used to wrap mummies in ancient Egyptian tombs.

SUSTAINABLE BENEFIT

Flax is grown quickly and easily, requires few chemicals, and does not require irrigation during its cultivation.

SIMILAR / ALTERNATIVE FIBERS

HEMP, JUTE

MAIN PRODUCTS

Fabrics, Garments, Twine and Rope, Canvas, Webbing Equipment

HEMP

An important fiber for sustainable textiles.

DESCRIPTION

Hemp is a natural plant fiber extracted from the bast of Cannabis sativa. It is often considered as a "super fiber". True hemp is fine, light- colored and lustrous. It is naturally one of the most environmentally friendly fibers. Fine quality hemp fabrics can be compared to linen. It is also used to blend with other fibers to improve its touch.

HISTORY

Hemp is one of the oldest known fibers, and was discovered in a tomb in Columbia dating back to 8000 BC. In early Asian and Middle Eastern civilizations, hemp was used in various applications. It also played a significant role in England in the 16th century; King Henry VIII even published a law that fined farmers who failed to grow the crop. lt has been used in textiles for at least 6000 years.

SUSTAINABLE BENEFIT

A rapidly renewable fiber that can grow up to 4 meters in just 3 months. It only requires few chemical inputs and is highly adaptable to various climate conditions.

SIMILAR / ALTERNATIVE FIBERS

FLAX, JUTE

MAIN PRODUCTS

Textiles, Garments, Shoes, Accessories, Ropes, Homewares

COTTON

The most popular fiber in the world.

DESCRIPTION

Cotton is a seed fiber grown as a protective case around the seed of the cotton plant. Known to be the most popular natural fiber in the world, it is soft and fluffy to the touch and is usually off-white in color.

HISTORY

Derived from the Arabic word "Kutan", cotton has been grown for more than 6000 years. First found woven in cloth around 3000 BC in Pakistan, it was then brought to Europe in about 800 AD by Arabic merchants, and by 1500 was known throughout the world.

MANUFACTURING

Conventional cotton requires extremely high moisture levels, resulting from rainfall or irrigation during the growing season, and a warm, dry season during the picking period. Picked cotton will go through ginning to separate the fibers from the seeds. Significant ecological and social impact caused by large-scale intensive production is a great concern in the industry.

CLASS OF COTTON

The grade of cotton depends on cleanliness, whiteness, fiber length, and fiber strength, but a longer staple usually indicates higher quality with a smoother hand feel.

EXTRA LONG STAPLE

Supima from America, Sea Island cotton from the Caribbean, and Giza cotton from Egypt are cotton with the highest qualities. They are all extra-long staple and very soft to the touch.

SIMILAR / ALTERNATIVE FIBERS

RAMIE, BAMBOO, KAPOK, POLYESTER

SUSTAINABLE BENEFIT

Organic cotton and color cotton are some sustainable options that have been promoted to replace conventional cotton, with much less synthetic agricultural chemicals and water usage.

MAIN PRODUCTS

Fabrics, Garments, Underwear, Socks, T-shirt, Shirt, Denim, Homewares, Canvas

JUTE

A low-cost, low-maintenance, and fast-growing fiber.

DESCRIPTION

Jute is a highly lignified natural plant fiber that is extracted from the Corchorus plant. It is also known as the "golden fiber" as it is generally golden- brown in color with a natural luster. It is only second to cotton when it comes to production and global consumption, as well as being one of the most affordable fibers.

HISTORY

Jute originated in India and has been grown on farms for centuries. The fiber started to be exported in the 1880s when a system for spinning and weaving was developed in Dundee, Scotland, which now has a jute museum. Jute products were replaced by synthetic fibers in the 1970s, and by the late 1990s, bulk packaging reduced the need for jute sacks.

SUSTAINABLE BENEFIT

It is a fast growing and low-maintenance crop that can be harvested every 4 to 6 months and requires little use of pesticides or fertilizers.

SIMILAR / ALTERNATIVE FIBERS

HEMP FLAX

MAIN PRODUCTS

Fabrics, Garments, Bags and Accessories, Sweaters and Cardigans, Carpets, Twine and Rope, Homewares

RAMIÈ

A strong plant fiber that is similar to linen.

DESCRIPTION

Ramie, also commonly known as China grass or rhea, is one of the oldest fibers cultivated for textiles. It is also one of the strongest natural plant fibers. Naturally white in color and with silk-like luster, it is similar to linen. To improve its properties, it can also be blended with other fibers including cotton, polyester, and wool.

HISTORY

Ramie has been used since prehistoric times in China, India, and Indonesia. It was used in ancient Egypt and known in Europe during the Middle Ages. The usage of ramie increased in the mid-1980s due to a renewed interest in natural fibers.

SIMILAR / ALTERNATIVE FIBERS

FLAX, SILK, RAYON

MAIN PRODUCTS

Textiles, Garments, Industrial use, Packings, Fishing nets

BAMBOO

A very strong plant fiber with outstanding biodegradability.

DESCRIPTION

Bamboo is a natural bast fiber obtained from the pulp of bamboo plants. It can be processed into two major types of fiber: bamboo linen and bamboo viscose, which is the method used for the majority of bamboo fabric. Bamboo fiber is usually blended with other materials to make fabric.

HISTORY

Bamboo fiber originated in China, and was mainly used to make paper. Historically, it was also used for structural elements, such as bustles and the ribs of corsets. In the 20th century, the popularity of bamboo within the clothing industry grew, especially because of its environmental friendliness.

SUSTAINABLE BENEFIT

Bamboo is a rapidly renewable and biodegradable resource. It is a low-maintenance crop, requires few chemicals during cultivation.

SIMILAR / ALTERNATIVE FIBERS

COTTON, CASHMERE, WOOL, POLYESTER

USEFUL TO KNOW

Bamboo is an eco-friendly 100% biodegradable fiber, hypoallergenic natural fiber that has strong anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties. Bamboo is extremely breathable, highly sweat absorbent, powerfully insulating and naturally UV protectant.

MAIN PRODUCTS

Fabrics, Garments, Accessories, Bedding, Towels, Homewares

CASE STUDIES: Cariuma

SISAL

A strong, coarse fiber often used for ropes.

DESCRIPTION

Sisal is a natural fiber obtained from the leaves of the sisal plant. It is a hard and long fiber, where the leaves are beaten to separate tough fibers from the weak. The fiber has a coarse texture with lustrous, creamy white colors.

HISTORY

The Sisal plant is native to Central America, where its fiber has been extracted since pre-Columbian times. Commercial interest in sisal was stimulated by the development of the machine grain binder in the 1880s, which brought a demand for low-cost twine made out of sisal. Sisal twine and rope remains popular today due to its great strength.

SIMILAR/ALTERNATIVE FIBERS

JUTE

MAIN PRODUCTS

Fabrics, Garments, Rope and Twine, Footwear, Hats, Bags, Carpets, Homewares

KAPOK

A renewable, natural plant fiber often referred to as "poor mans silk".

DESCRIPTION

Kapok is a natural cellulose plant fiber obtained from the fruit of the kapok tree, or the tree itself. It is sometimes referred to as Java cotton, ceiba, Java kapok, or silk cotton. The color ranges from white, pale yellow, to light brown, and consists of silky and lustrous textures. It is often blended with other fibers.

HISTORY

Kapok originated in South America and Africa. By the late-19th century, it became an important crop in Asia. With rising global wealth in the late Victorian era, the trend towards "overstuffed" sofas began. As kapok fibers were much cheaper than horsehair- the standard upholstery material used at the time -demand grew rapidly. Kapok was replaced by cheaper manmade substitutes after World War Il but has recently made a comeback as organic and natural fibers have risen in popularity.

SIMILAR / ALTERNATIVE FIBERS

COTTON SILK

MAIN PRODUCTS

Mattresses, Pillows, Paddings, Lifebelts, Fabrics, Garments

CASE STUDIES: Emma Bruschi and her farmer's almanac

COIR

A fiber extracted from coconut husk, often used for doormats.

DESCRIPTION

Coir is a highly lignified plant fiber extracted from coconut husk. It is the thickest and most resistant of all commercial natural fibers and is generally gold in color. There are two types of coir: the more commonly used brown fiber obtained from mature coconuts, and finer white fiber extracted from unripe green coconuts.

HISTORY

Originating in India, coconuts were first documented in the 3rd century BC. Ropes and cords have been madefrom coconut fiber since ancient times. Indian navigators who sailed the seas centuries ago used coir for ropes on their ships. During 1840, Treloar and Sons, a carpet manufacturer, began using coir fiber for various applications.

SIMILAR / ALTERNATIVE FIBERS

HEMP.

MAIN PRODUCTS

Ropes, Twine, Doormats, Brushes, Mattresses

ABACA

A low-cost and renewable fiber that can achieve a silk- like texture.

DESCRIPTION

Abaca, also known as Manila hemp, is extracted from the leaf sheath around the trunk of the abaca plant (also known as Musa textilis). A close relative of the banana tree, it is considered among the strongest natural fibers, and is usually up to 3 meters long. The best grades of the fiber are fine, lustrous, and light beige in color. Cellulose abaca fibers are relatively smooth and straight.

HISTORY

Discovered by the Dutch, the abaca plant originated in Sumatra, Philippines in 1925. It was successfully introduced into Central America soon after. During World War II, production in the Philippines declined, while production increased in the United States. Abaca was widely used for rigging ships and its pulp was used to make sturdy Manila envelopes at that time. Aklan, a province in the Philippines, produces the highest quality fiber of this type.

SIMILAR / ALTERNATIVE FIBERS

HEMP FLAX JUTE .

MAIN PRODUCTS

Fabrics, Hats, Bags, Rugs

ANIMAL FIBER

WOOL

A Woolly winter fiber, commonly used in suits and knit fabrics.